Austin, TX · Concrete Patios
Concrete Patios in Austin
Concrete patios in Austin for flat backyards and Hill Country slopes alike, planned around shade trees, drainage and the city's impervious cover limits.
01 — What this covers
The work itself
- New patios and patio extensions
- Terraced patios with steps on sloped lots
- Slabs for pergolas, covered patios and outdoor kitchens
- Patios around protected trees, outside the root zone
- Broom, exposed aggregate, stamped and stained finishes
- Fire pit, hot tub and seating pads
- Patio walkways and garden paths
- Removal of old patios and replacement
02 — Detail
Start with the lot, not the catalog
The right patio for an Austin backyard depends on what the yard is doing. A flat lot on the east side mostly needs good drainage and a slab built for clay. A lot that falls away from the house on the west side may need the patio in two levels, a few steps and a retaining edge so the slab doesn't end up floating on deep fill.
Shade decides how a patio gets used. Afternoon sun in July makes an unshaded slab hard to enjoy, so many homeowners place the patio where an existing tree or the house throws shade, or plan a pergola or roof from the start.
Think about how people move: from the kitchen door to the table, from the table to the grill, from the patio to the lawn or the pool. Paths and steps that follow those lines make the space work far better than a bigger rectangle.
03 — Detail
Patios near big trees
Austin neighborhoods are full of mature live oaks, pecans and cedar elms, and the city protects the larger ones. Trees 19 inches or more across the trunk are protected, oaks and some other species 24 inches and up are heritage trees, and work in the critical root zone around them is restricted.
As a rule of thumb, the root zone extends about a foot for every inch of trunk diameter, and the area closest to the trunk is the most restricted. Cutting in a foot of soil for a slab base there can damage roots that keep the tree alive, which is exactly what the rules aim to prevent.
A good plan keeps the patio outside the protected area, or uses approaches the city arborist accepts. Raised decks, pavers on a shallow base or a patio shaped around the tree are common answers. It's worth settling this before the estimate, not after a crew has started digging.
04 — Detail
Drainage, slope and heavy storms
Central Texas is known as Flash Flood Alley for a reason: rain often arrives in short, intense bursts. A patio adds a hard surface that sheds water fast, so it needs a planned slope away from the house and a place for that water to go.
On sloped lots, water coming down from above can run straight across a new patio and against the house. A swale, a drain at the uphill edge or a curb can send it around instead. On flat lots, the concern is the opposite: water sitting on or next to the slab and soaking the clay underneath.
Gutters and downspouts belong in the patio plan. Leading them into a buried line or onto splash blocks that send water away keeps the edges of the slab dry and stable.
05 — Detail
Impervious cover and permits
Inside Austin city limits, patios count toward the impervious cover allowed on your lot. In many single-family zones the limit is 45 percent of the lot, and much lower over the Barton Springs portion of the aquifer. A large patio on a lot that's already near the limit may not be allowed as planned.
If you're close to the cap, there are options: a smaller slab, removing an old walkway or paved area elsewhere, or a different surface for part of the space. Your contractor can help you estimate the numbers, and the city's development services can confirm them for your address.
Round Rock, Leander and Georgetown have their own codes, generally less restrictive for a simple patio, but HOA rules often apply there instead. Checking both before signing avoids changes halfway through.
06 — Detail
Building it to last
The work below the surface is the same everywhere: remove grass and organic soil, compact the subgrade, add base material where needed, set rebar on chairs and form the slope. On rock, high spots may need to be broken out so the slab has an even thickness.
Joints are planned with the shape, with extra ones at inside corners where cracks like to start. Where the patio meets the house, a joint keeps the two from binding as they move.
In summer, pours often start at dawn. The slab is kept from drying too quickly and protected from afternoon storms. Furniture can go on after a few days; heavy items like an outdoor kitchen should wait longer.
How we work
Step by step
- 01
Call to talk through the size, use, shade and finish.
- 02
Site visit: slope, rock or clay, drainage, trees and access.
- 03
Estimate in writing, including base, levels, steps, finish and any removal.
- 04
Excavation, forms and steel, then the pour and finish.
- 05
Curing, joint cutting and sealing for decorative finishes.
What it costs
Patio prices depend on the size, the finish, how much digging the ground needs, steps or retaining edges on sloped lots, access and any old slab to remove. Rock excavation is the biggest variable on the west side.
Questions
Concrete Patios — asked and answered
Does a patio count toward impervious cover in Austin?
Yes. Patios, driveways and walkways all count. Check your lot's current coverage before planning a large new slab.
Can I pour a patio under my live oak?
Usually not close to the trunk. Protected trees have a root zone where paving is restricted. A patio shaped around the tree or placed farther away is the common solution.
What if there's rock under my yard?
That's normal on the west side. High rock may need to be broken out so the slab has an even thickness, which adds time and cost.
How long until I can use the patio?
Walking after a day or two, furniture after a few days and heavier items after the concrete has cured longer.
Do patios need a sealer?
Decorative finishes do. A plain broom finish can be left as is or protected with a penetrating sealer against stains.
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